Stories from About.com Surfing
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God and Surfing
About.com Surfing &bull Dec 10, 2011
Here is a re-post below that has generated lots of feedback. It came to my mind as I watched Jaimal Yogis' video about his book Saltwater Buddha: a surfer's quest to find Zen on the sea. It made me think… Full Story »
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Fight Club or Surf Club?
About.com Surfing &bull Nov 30, 2011
Tom Curren once said that surfing is like living in a primal scream...Not sure what that means but I think it's like life. Life is the experience not the product. In other words, how you get to your destination matters… Full Story »
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Contemplating Curren over Coffee
About.com Surfing &bull Nov 29, 2011
After a recent morning surf, I was sitting in a coffee shop reading Drew Kampion's The Way of the Surfer, and I came across a great article on Tom Curren with an even better title: Still Waters Run Deep. That's… Full Story »
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Big Wave Madness
About.com Surfing &bull Nov 12, 2011
Slater's big title fuss was all the rage last week, but it was Garrett McNamara's beast of a wave over a submarine canyon that grabbed the world news. Every morning show worth its salt ran video and pics of this blue behemoth. The wave is impossible to describe. I… Full Story »
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When you're Surf Bored, look to your Fins
About.com Surfing &bull Oct 23, 2011
An interview with Tyler Callaway who heads up FCS Fins really illuminates the complexities of surfboard design and the associated hydrodynamics that make up the way a board rides and how it responds to your commands. It might seem obvious… Full Story »
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The ASP and the Sweetness of Choice
About.com Surfing &bull Oct 16, 2011
Surfer Magazine's latest issue is pretty solid. The current team of writers seems to strike a chord that is both insightful and interesting. They hover healthily somewhere between pedantic and pandering. It's a place that a major mag like Surfer needs to remain to stay relevant and open for business. But… Full Story »
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Surfboard Shaping: Dead or Re-born?
About.com Surfing &bull Oct 9, 2011
Surfboards are a work of art. No argument there. Energized by muse. Infused with individuality, hand shaped surfboards will forever drive innovation in form and function. From the early Hawaiian Olo or alaia boards to Tom Blake's hollow logs, George Greenough's kneeboards, Greg Knoll's big wave guns, Simon Anderson, Glenn Winton, Dick… Full Story »
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Is Surfing Unique?
About.com Surfing &bull Oct 2, 2011
During a recent and decidedly friendly discussion about sports, I made the unequivocal statement that surfing was unlike other sports and shouldn't be included in the same category. I was met with fervent disagreement. One self described basketball fiend argued that his sport of choice inspires the same passion and same devotion, creates that same… Full Story »
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Topics:
- Surfing
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Surfing as Tragedy
About.com Surfing &bull Sep 18, 2011
Miki Dora was a surf maniac. He bled and breathed the lifestyle and pulled hijinks and hoodwinks along the way from SoCal to South Africa to France to New Zealand to Chile and beyond. No job and no responsibility from… Full Story »
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The New Top-34 and the Transfer of Soul
About.com Surfing &bull Sep 11, 2011
The new ASP Top 34 has been announced. And while as I peruse the names, I find myself pretty stoked with the depth of talent. However, I am left a little sad by the dearth of uniqueness and personality. These are the athletes who… Full Story »
