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Stories from Born To Lose

  1. Muck'n about...

    Born To Lose &bull Jun 29, 2010

    When I'm not making "interesting" choices while surfing... I'm making charming little baby girls! Full Story »

  2. Chemistry Set...

    Born To Lose &bull Jun 3, 2010

    Ding repair: Teach yourself to do it. Teach your son to do it. He can be better than you. Full Story »


  3. Feeling the kneed...

    Born To Lose &bull Apr 22, 2010

    Flat, short, wide, keeled and kneeled. In the middle of a satisfying session it happens. You've been enjoying some speed runs, turns, and stylish this'n'thats. You're feeling good about your surfing. You're in rhythm, you've got a flow. You even… Full Story »


  4. Speak, Memory...

    Born To Lose &bull Apr 7, 2010

    Image Heist from Ryan Field Photography (KllrPx) 1995. The Jewel,CA. My daily fun was headfirst, with an eye for an almond-exit. Lounge, VJourneys, GoodLuck Reef, and Retirement Heaven were my favorite haunts. Sea grass on the knees and finless tunnel… Full Story »

  5. Funnin'...

    Born To Lose &bull Mar 16, 2010

    To make myself clear. There are no rules about how you can surf, just as there are no rules as to how you can paint. There are only techniques, tools, canvases all for the purpose that you choose. Enjoy! Full Story »

  6. The change due...

    Born To Lose &bull Mar 14, 2010

    Derek Hynd=an original. We've reached the plateau, now the pinnacle awaits. Broken are the molds that mandated clear, three-finned, rocker-wafers. Matriculated memories are the leftovers of the counter culture rumblings and psychedelia of the down rail Hynson missions. Simmons' machines… Full Story »


  7. Valyou...

    Born To Lose &bull Feb 21, 2010

    Lis fish, Select Surf Shop, Roots! I received these images and a request for a determination of value. I responded by asking what was meant by "value". I could see myself valuing this beauty through a high line or two.… Full Story »

    • fins
    • fins
    • fins
  8. Lines Converge...

    Born To Lose &bull Feb 11, 2010

    A personally inspiring interview I held with Manuel C. Caro has just reached the interwebs. Please enjoy it on Drift Surfing Magazine. Full Story »

  9. The Pendulum Swings...

    Born To Lose &bull Feb 11, 2010

    LCrow, putting some resin on a surfboard by CChristenson for MHealy. Pic via MMiller. Remember Edgar Allen Poe? The Pit and the...? A meticulous metaphor crafted to incite horror. And it did. And it does. I was chatting at the… Full Story »

  10. I/We...

    Born To Lose &bull Feb 1, 2010

    Solitude sent me searching at my out of the way spots. High tide and decent swell mixed with a rambling shuffle of the feet. Two days, many waves, tired, satiated but not satisfied. The only surfer I surfed with was… Full Story »



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