Stories from INTRUDER IN THE SURF
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How Do You Discourage Snaking?
INTRUDER IN THE SURF &bull Jul 24, 2010
I've got my methods. Recently, one of them was caught on film . If I see you trying to drop in on my wave, I surf right at you before turning and heading on my way down the line. I… Full Story »
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Spoke Too Soon (or Why It's No Longer Summer)
INTRUDER IN THE SURF &bull Jul 16, 2010
That is a picture of me kicking out. Period. That's about the most exciting thing that happened in my session. The sun never did make an appearance. However, the rain did. The wind blew this way, that way and the other way, making for a somewhat chilly… Full Story »
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The "Summer Finally Showed Up" Dance Party
INTRUDER IN THE SURF &bull Jul 15, 2010
I don't remember the last time we had July Gloom for as long as we did. I do remember it raining in June a few years ago. But July? What was that about? I'm just thankful that the sun finally… Full Story »
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Topics:
- California
- lineup
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Bluegillin' in the Victory at Sea Closeouts!
INTRUDER IN THE SURF &bull Jul 12, 2010
I've said it before and I'll say it again. Pictures of me being thrown from my surfboards, with dreadlocks flying in various directions, never get old. Ever!! I didn't have much to work with today. My car was in the… Full Story »
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Guest Blogger #7: Ramsnake
INTRUDER IN THE SURF &bull Jul 10, 2010
Ramsnake and I keep crossing paths. Either it's on my blog, his blog or on the two group blogs which list us both as contributors. Who is Ramsnake? Well, I can't say. I wouldn't do him justice. All I know is that he is a waterman in the best sense of the word. He's not wed to the idea that one must always stand on a board in order to be accepted into the surfing fold. What really caught… Full Story »
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"This is the Best Winter We've Ever Had in July"
INTRUDER IN THE SURF &bull Jul 7, 2010
Someone paddled right up and said that to me as I sat there shivering. That 3/2 of mine is completely worthless. It's a couple of years old. Really, it's like wearing a wetsuit made of cheesecloth. The water streams right… Full Story »
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On Crowds, Surf Cams and Bad Attitudes
INTRUDER IN THE SURF &bull Jul 5, 2010
This morning, I finally pulled the trigger on a surf cam. In other words, I recognized that I could no longer live my life without having access to a cam. In the past, I've made do with the free cams, both through the County of L.A. and Surfline, and… Full Story »
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Invasion of the Bluegills!
INTRUDER IN THE SURF &bull Jun 28, 2010
In what scientists are calling a "confluence of aquatic birds of a feather," three Bluegills were spotted trolling the shore of a local beach break yesterday. These creatures are not generally known to travel in schools, but scientists say that… Full Story »
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Topics:
- California
- beach break
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It's All My Fault
INTRUDER IN THE SURF &bull Jun 26, 2010
Mea culpa! I got a new board. I waxed my new board. I shortened the leash loop (even though I don't plan on wearing a leash with it often). I checked surf report. I was ready to surf it the following day. Fail!!! There were no… Full Story »
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Happy Father's Day!
INTRUDER IN THE SURF &bull Jun 20, 2010
My dad died one year before my child was born. Sadly, he never got to know his beautiful grandson with the kick-ass sense of humor. I live right around the corner, in part, because that gives her easy access to… Full Story »
